[ Asia's 50 Best Restaurants]

亞洲50佳

今年亞洲50佳評(píng)選告一段落，

但這只是逗號(hào)。

作為一直關(guān)注中國(guó)餐飲成長(zhǎng)的媒體人，

我希望給大家傳遞成功者的經(jīng)?驗(yàn)?大實(shí)話。

也許明年咱也上了呢？

榜單速覽：“守舊”餐飲占優(yōu)勢(shì)

這次，眾望所歸，香港THE CHAIRMAN“大班樓”榮登2026年度ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS“亞洲50最佳餐廳”NO.1寶座。

老板Danny笑說(shuō)自己的團(tuán)隊(duì)是Vintage（復(fù)古）的。官方是這樣評(píng)價(jià)這支團(tuán)隊(duì)的：“這家備受贊譽(yù)的餐廳致力于致敬幾近失傳的華南珍貴食材與粵菜傳統(tǒng)，從去年的No.2攀升至榜首，繼2021年后再度登頂亞洲最佳餐廳?！?/p>

本年度第1-50名榜單覆蓋17個(gè)城市，8家餐廳新晉上榜，彰顯亞洲餐飲界的卓越成就。

香港在本年度榜單上表現(xiàn)卓越，除The Chairman“大班樓”重新登頂外，Wing“永”位列No.2，餐廳主廚兼店主鄭永麒(Vicky Cheng)以精湛法式廚藝，對(duì)中國(guó)八大菜系進(jìn)行創(chuàng)新演繹。

The Best Restaurant in Macau“澳門最佳餐廳”殊榮由位于永利皇宮的Chef Tam's Seasons“譚卉”(No.7)奪得，這家譚國(guó)鋒師傅掌廚的餐廳以精致粵菜聞名，排名較去年更進(jìn)一步。

今年也是中國(guó)內(nèi)地餐廳上榜數(shù)量最多的一次，共有7家進(jìn)入前50，其中3家躋身前10，再次刷新紀(jì)錄。分別是遇外灘（上海）第6位，Ling Long （上海）第9位，如院（杭州）第10位。加上港澳，前10名榜單中中國(guó)餐廳占據(jù)6席，我很驚喜看到那么多中國(guó)優(yōu)秀餐廳能夠站在亞洲餐飲前列。

上海以5家上榜餐廳領(lǐng)跑中國(guó)內(nèi)地，杭州也躋身主榜單。Meet the Bund“遇外灘”延續(xù)上升勢(shì)頭，從去年的No.14躍升至No.6，再次蟬聯(lián)“中國(guó)內(nèi)地最佳餐廳”。現(xiàn)代中餐廳Ling Long“凌瓏”(No.9)于本年度榜單上保持強(qiáng)勢(shì)地位。傳統(tǒng)廣府筵席菜102 House“壹零貳小館”(No.29)與去年度排名不變。巴斯克海鮮燒烤餐廳La Bourriche 133(No.48)則首次入圍（他們以本土海鮮為主要食材）。

值得回顧的是：2026亞洲50最佳餐廳中國(guó)內(nèi)地餐廳在第51-100位版圖也擴(kuò)大了。

2026 Asia's 50 Best Restaurants第51-100名的榜單中，中國(guó)餐廳共有13家上榜，占比超過(guò)1/4。其中包括中國(guó)內(nèi)地6家（北京2家、深圳2家、杭州1家、成都1家），中國(guó)香港4家，中國(guó)澳門1家，中國(guó)臺(tái)灣2家。
譽(yù)瓏軒 （澳門，No.80）、金沙廳（杭州，No.85）、 Amber（香港，No.90）等老牌名店重新回歸榜單。
1996 川菜·主廚餐廳（北京，No.52）、晶華軒（臺(tái)北，No.64）、Fumée拂鳴（深圳，No.65）、蔻Co-（成都，No.69）新入選。今年北京、深圳、成都均有新餐廳首次上榜，其中成都首次有餐廳登榜。
Ensue（深圳）由去年的No.85升至No.54，上升31位。

值得一提的是：新榮記創(chuàng)辦人張勇榮膺獲標(biāo)志人物大獎(jiǎng)，陳碧琪（Zero Foodprint Asia 零碳足食執(zhí)行董事）榮獲變革獎(jiǎng)。北京的蘭齋飆升33位到第17，榮獲最佳進(jìn)步獎(jiǎng)。福和慧位列第11，目前是中國(guó)第一素食。

我發(fā)現(xiàn)有一個(gè)趨勢(shì)，越是強(qiáng)調(diào)在地傳統(tǒng)根基的餐飲，越有全球表現(xiàn)力！

另外，還有香港的Neighborhood（第24位）、Estro （第32位）、Caprice（第35位）、Mono （第46位），中國(guó)臺(tái)灣的Logy （第22位） 、JL Studio （第50位）。同時(shí)，我特別認(rèn)同Neighborhood老板David的個(gè)人觀點(diǎn)，年輕餐飲人應(yīng)該找到自己的風(fēng)格，而不是盲目“借鑒”。

Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2026年度榜單曼谷以 9 家入選餐廳領(lǐng)跑，東京以7 家餐廳上榜緊隨其后。

去年的冠軍得主Gaggan今年位居第3，仍然是“泰國(guó)最佳餐廳”，主廚 Gaggan Anand與LV品牌合作的Gaggan at Louis Vuitton也排名第8。Chef Ton的Nusara（第5位）和Le Du（第36位）雙雙上榜，他本人則榮獲由同行票選的“廚師之選獎(jiǎng)”。

東京上榜的7 家餐廳中，排名最高的是大坂La Cime（第13位），而東京的Sézanne和Sazenka“茶禪華”分別位列第16和21位。

韓國(guó)餐飲的流行風(fēng)潮越來(lái)越顯現(xiàn)，Mingles（第4位）再度榮獲“韓國(guó)最佳餐廳”，Mosu以41位重返榜單，老牌精致餐飲依然有魅力。今年亞洲50佳榜單加入了更多國(guó)家的強(qiáng)勁力量，我們看到亞洲美味的舞臺(tái)越來(lái)越大。

孟買Masque(No.15)由Aditi Dugar創(chuàng)立，為現(xiàn)代印度美食先驅(qū)，第四度獲評(píng)為The Best Restaurant in India“印度最佳餐廳”，同時(shí)獲頒Art of Hospitality Award“待客藝術(shù)獎(jiǎng)”，以表彰其卓越待客體驗(yàn)。位于昌迪加爾與西姆拉之間偏遠(yuǎn)山麓的卡紹利，憑借Naar(No.30)首次亮相第1-50名榜單，主廚Prateek Sadhu致力呈現(xiàn)其對(duì)喜馬拉雅飲食文化的熱愛(ài)。

檳城首次有餐廳入圍第1-50名榜單，Au Jardin(No.39)由主廚兼店主史金福(Kim Hock Su)主理，將法式元素注入馬來(lái)西亞精致菜肴之中，獲評(píng)為The Best Restaurant in Malaysia“馬來(lái)西亞最佳餐廳”。

50Best“50最佳”活動(dòng)董事總經(jīng)理Rikki Tidball表示：“本年度榜單匯集了來(lái)自17個(gè)亞洲城市廣受歡迎的餐廳。我們衷心祝賀所有上榜餐廳，尤其是榮登2026年度亞洲50最佳餐廳No.1寶座的The Chairman大班樓。該餐廳致力于傳承精致粵菜傳統(tǒng)，堅(jiān)持以食材為本，因而脫穎而出。榜單上所有餐廳對(duì)卓越廚藝的追求及對(duì)美食邊界的突破，充分展現(xiàn)了亞洲餐飲界的蓬勃發(fā)展，以及非凡人才與創(chuàng)新精神?！?/p>

我跟大班樓Danny探討的問(wèn)題，其實(shí)是想替國(guó)內(nèi)一直在堅(jiān)守“傳統(tǒng)”的餐廳去問(wèn)的。新時(shí)代的洪流里，其實(shí)有很多傳統(tǒng)餐飲都開始不同程度轉(zhuǎn)型，有些是“舍棄”了，有些是“融合”了，有些是“美化”了。大班樓代表中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)的力量走向世界，其實(shí)是很鼓舞的一件事。

從另一個(gè)角度，我想說(shuō)香港的“傳統(tǒng)”早已被國(guó)際化進(jìn)程塑造成一種可被全球市場(chǎng)識(shí)別的“標(biāo)志性資產(chǎn)”，這和內(nèi)地多數(shù)傳統(tǒng)餐廳所處的生態(tài)截然不同。香港自開埠以來(lái)就是中西文化的交匯點(diǎn)，傳統(tǒng)粵菜在殖民時(shí)期就開始與西方飲食體系互動(dòng)，形成了既有嶺南根基又具國(guó)際表達(dá)的獨(dú)特形態(tài)。這種“傳統(tǒng)”不是封閉的老手藝，而是經(jīng)過(guò)市場(chǎng)篩選、語(yǔ)言轉(zhuǎn)譯和審美校準(zhǔn)的文化符號(hào)，天然具備跨文化傳播的基因。

時(shí)間有限，于是現(xiàn)場(chǎng)我沒(méi)有再追問(wèn)，但線下我需要再問(wèn)下去。

“會(huì)見(jiàn)主廚”媒體圓桌會(huì)：可持續(xù)是謊言？年輕人太喜歡“抄”？娛樂(lè)化可以使“客戶更耐煩”？…

Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 亞洲50最佳餐廳里面，我最喜歡的環(huán)節(jié)其實(shí)是和有態(tài)度的主廚們聊天，主辦方稱作“快速約會(huì)”。我聆聽(tīng)他們的故事，可以面對(duì)面聊一些平時(shí)埋頭吃飯得不到的“干貨”。

? 黎子安（David Lai），Neighborhood——香港

黎子安（David Lai）是一位在香港出生、在美國(guó)成長(zhǎng)的廚師，最為人熟知的身份是Neighborhood的創(chuàng)始人，這家備受喜愛(ài)的小酒館隱居于荷里活道旁。他在北加州開始了他的烹飪生涯，在Masa's和The Ritz-Carlton San Francisco等知名機(jī)構(gòu)磨練，之后返回香港與Alain Ducasse合作開設(shè)了Spoon餐廳。

他的烹飪哲學(xué)側(cè)重于簡(jiǎn)單、時(shí)令，讓優(yōu)質(zhì)食材本身說(shuō)話。在2014年開設(shè)Neighborhood之前，Lai曾領(lǐng)導(dǎo)過(guò)香港幾家備受贊譽(yù)的餐廳，包括On Lot 10、Kushiyaki Beco、Bistronomique和Fish School。

David以其低調(diào)的風(fēng)格和考究的風(fēng)味而聞名，已成為香港最受尊敬的廚師兼餐飲主理人之一，深受食客和業(yè)內(nèi)人士的贊賞。

我很喜歡David的率性。剛剛上桌，他經(jīng)不住說(shuō)：“We are back to normal like pre-COVID level. So I'm very happy about that.”

“一切都恢復(fù)到了疫情前的正常情況，我對(duì)此感到非常開心?！?/p>

Q：很多年輕的廚師，他們?cè)趧?chuàng)作自己的現(xiàn)代料理的時(shí)候，會(huì)挖掘越來(lái)越多的傳統(tǒng)文化，對(duì)此您怎么看？

So I think now the thing is too much information on the internet, and the food is the same in London, Copenhagen, New York, Tokyo and Paris. It's because I think especially for young chefs, they get too much information and feel a bit confusing. I think the goal of a chef is to develop their own personality and voice, like a good writer, like Hemingway, he can use the least amount of work to convey very great and clear ideas, like emotions and thoughts. So I think young chefs get carried away by trends because it's so easy to see everyone make a flower on the plate like Noma, and so I don’t think it’s helpful.

我覺(jué)得現(xiàn)在的問(wèn)題是網(wǎng)絡(luò)上的信息太多了，倫敦、哥本哈根、紐約、東京、巴黎的餐飲風(fēng)格都變得趨同。尤其是年輕廚師，接觸的信息過(guò)多，難免會(huì)感到困惑。我認(rèn)為廚師的核心目標(biāo)，是塑造屬于自己的個(gè)人風(fēng)格和表達(dá)內(nèi)核，就像海明威這樣優(yōu)秀的作家，能用最凝練的方式，傳遞出深刻又清晰的思想，比如情感與觀點(diǎn)。年輕廚師很容易被潮流裹挾，畢竟隨處可見(jiàn)大家都像Noma餐廳那樣，在盤子里做花藝裝飾，我覺(jué)得這樣的做法并無(wú)益處。

As a chef, I probably stopped looking at other people's cookbooks 10 years ago. Before opening my first restaurant, I told people it’s a French bistro, but when you put a label on it, you are forced to fit in a box. Like if it's a French bistro, I have to stick to it and make something that fits. But if I want to make a paella, people would say that's a Spanish dish and it does not fit in a French restaurant.

作為一名廚師，我大概十年前就不再看別人的烹飪書籍了。開第一家餐廳前，我跟別人說(shuō)這是一家法式小館，但一旦給餐廳貼上標(biāo)簽，就會(huì)被局限在固定的框架里。比如法式小館，就必須恪守法式風(fēng)格，做符合定位的菜品?？扇绻蚁胱鰝€(gè)海鮮飯，別人就會(huì)說(shuō)這是西班牙菜，不該出現(xiàn)在法式餐廳里。

So now I stopped trying to put a label. I just do what I want. I do what I feel like. I go to the market in the morning, I buy ingredients that excite me, and with that excitement, I hope when I cook them, I have more energy, and for customers, they can feel the excitement. I think when they get the emotion I put in, it's my expression to my customers.

所以現(xiàn)在我不再刻意給自己的烹飪貼標(biāo)簽，只做自己想做的、自己喜歡的菜。我每天早上去市集，挑選那些能讓我心生歡喜的食材，帶著這份熱情烹飪。我希望自己做菜時(shí)能充滿活力，也希望食客們能感受到這份心意。我覺(jué)得當(dāng)他們體會(huì)到我融入菜品里的情感時(shí)，這就是我向食客們的表達(dá)。

So I feel like at the end of the day, people remember a meal because they experience emotion. So the highest compliment my customers give me is that when they eat my food, they feel like they know my personality. And for me, I have done my job properly if people eat my food and know me.So I think we have so many techniques and different styles. They are only tools for communication. At the end of the day, it's people feeling the emotion.

我覺(jué)得說(shuō)到底，人們之所以會(huì)記住一頓飯，是因?yàn)樵谙碛脮r(shí)感受到了獨(dú)特的情感。食客能給我的最高贊美，就是說(shuō)吃到我的菜時(shí)，仿佛讀懂了我的性格。對(duì)我而言，只要人們品嘗我的菜品，就能了解我，我的工作就做到位了。如今我們有各式各樣的烹飪技法和風(fēng)格，但這些都只是表達(dá)的工具。說(shuō)到底，烹飪的核心終究是讓人們感受到那份真摯的情感。

Q：Do you have any suggestions for young chefs?

你對(duì)年輕廚師有什么建議嗎？

Travel more. Food is about culture. So when you travel around, it's the easiest way for you to have firsthand experience. When you just go on the internet, it's all secondhand experience, but when you travel, it's firsthand feeling. For example, in Hong Kong, I can see how chefs use carrots; when I go to Japan, I see how Japanese people use a carrot; when I go to Europe, I see the same ingredient but with a completely different mentality. So when you see how different people think, you learn how to think.

多去旅行。美食與文化息息相關(guān)，旅行是獲得第一手體驗(yàn)最直接的方式。上網(wǎng)看到的都是二手信息，而旅行能讓你親身感受。比如在香港，我看到當(dāng)?shù)貜N師如何使用胡蘿卜；到了日本，見(jiàn)識(shí)到日本人對(duì)胡蘿卜的處理方式；到了歐洲，又能看到人們用完全不同的思路對(duì)待同一種食材。當(dāng)你見(jiàn)識(shí)到不同的思維方式，才能慢慢形成屬于自己的思考方式。

Q：You mentioned travel, is there a dish you will miss when you are away from Hong Kong for a while？

你提到了旅行，當(dāng)你離開香港一段時(shí)間，會(huì)想念哪道菜？

Maybe like wonton noodle.

或許是云吞面吧。

Q：So what do you think is the one core spirit of neighborhoods that can never be replaced？

你認(rèn)為社區(qū)餐廳最不可替代的核心精神是什么？

Me.

是我。

Q：So then have you mainly stayed true to your original vision, or has Hong Kong maybe reshaped the restaurant？

那你是否一直堅(jiān)守著最初的經(jīng)營(yíng)理念，還是香港這座城市重新塑造了這家餐廳？

I think that's a dumb question because I don't think you can escape the influence of living in some place. You are yourself, but do you change? So I think you are always changing. Today you, tomorrow you, are a different person. Yesterday you were a different person. So every day I'm a new person, and that is the most important thing. Be honest about who you are today. Being in tune with your feelings every day is the most important way of living. Honestly. It doesn't matter if you're a writer, it doesn't matter if you're cooking, it doesn't matter. It's easy to tell the difference. I can see how I was different 5 years ago from today. It's easy to say, right? But how were you different yesterday and today? There are differences, and being able to tell the difference is important as a chef. Cooking is mostly about the moment, being inspired, and when working with these ingredients, it's to do it with transparency.

我覺(jué)得這個(gè)問(wèn)題沒(méi)什么意義，因?yàn)槿松钤谀硞€(gè)地方，就無(wú)法擺脫這個(gè)地方的影響。你本就是你，但人難道不會(huì)改變嗎？我認(rèn)為人始終都在變化，今天的你、明天的你，都和昨天的你不同。每一天的我都是一個(gè)全新的自己，這一點(diǎn)至關(guān)重要。要坦誠(chéng)地面對(duì)當(dāng)下的自己，時(shí)刻傾聽(tīng)內(nèi)心的感受，這才是最重要的生活方式，真的。無(wú)論你是作家、廚師，還是其他人，皆是如此。人是會(huì)變的，這一點(diǎn)很容易看出來(lái)。我們能輕易說(shuō)出自己五年前和現(xiàn)在的不同，對(duì)吧？但你能說(shuō)清自己昨天和今天的變化嗎？這些細(xì)微的變化真實(shí)存在，而作為廚師，能感知到這些變化至關(guān)重要。烹飪大多關(guān)乎當(dāng)下的心境，被靈感驅(qū)動(dòng)，而與食材相處的過(guò)程，更要帶著純粹的本心去做。

Q：How to understand the word transparency?

該如何理解“純粹”這個(gè)詞？

如果你寫東西你寫的好好的，就不用浪費(fèi)一些廢話，就很清楚的寫出來(lái)，用你自己的方式表達(dá)你自己的性格，表達(dá)你的思想，寫東西去掉形容詞。

Q：您剛才提到您每天早上都會(huì)去市場(chǎng)上去找食材，您最近有沒(méi)有找到一些讓你覺(jué)得非常滿意的？

I don't think one day's ingredient is necessarily better than another's.

我覺(jué)得其實(shí)每一天的食材，并沒(méi)有絕對(duì)的好壞之分。

Q：我很喜歡你的菜，但是我有一個(gè)問(wèn)題我想問(wèn)說(shuō)Neighborhood從開始開到現(xiàn)在，你覺(jué)得最驕傲的事情是什么？然后你最后悔的事情是什么？

I have become more myself, and the food has become more transparent.

我活成了更真實(shí)的自己，做的菜也變得更純粹。

沒(méi)有后悔的事情。你會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)有些人學(xué)習(xí)比較快，有些人學(xué)習(xí)比較慢，比如說(shuō)有些很年輕的廚師是天才，比如說(shuō)我朋友他就是很年輕，就很清楚自己的思考和性格。能在那么年輕的時(shí)候就那么成熟，了解自己的內(nèi)心，關(guān)鍵在于一個(gè)人成不成熟。你成熟了，才有自我。

Q：In your opinion, what makes Hong Kong F&B markets stand out and what kind of challenges does the Hong Kong F&B market face?

在你看來(lái)，香港的餐飲市場(chǎng)有哪些亮點(diǎn)，又面臨著怎樣的挑戰(zhàn)？

我覺(jué)得這就是香港成本太高了，很多內(nèi)地的人來(lái)香港的時(shí)候，會(huì)疑惑為什么在大陸吃的東西，環(huán)境更好，服務(wù)更好，價(jià)格卻要便宜一半。還有現(xiàn)在在內(nèi)地的食材其實(shí)已經(jīng)很發(fā)達(dá)了，因?yàn)槲锪骰旧鲜侨珖?guó)最好的，云南、東北哪里的最好的材料馬上就可以送達(dá)。到香港還要過(guò)關(guān)，過(guò)深圳關(guān)，其實(shí)我們的食材比內(nèi)地少很多，但是我們的好處就是外來(lái)的食材，比如說(shuō)歐洲、澳大利亞、日本各地的都有很多。我覺(jué)得香港的成本很高，那些小生意受影響，因?yàn)楠?dú)立的生意才有一些新的思想，我覺(jué)得有點(diǎn)可惜的。而且現(xiàn)在年輕人全部都讀大學(xué)了，沒(méi)有人親自來(lái)幫忙做事情，那也是可惜的。所以現(xiàn)在香港其實(shí)很多老店，經(jīng)營(yíng)者基本上都差不多到了退休的年紀(jì)，如果退休了，很多像倫敦或者本地的茶餐廳，基本上退休了就沒(méi)有人做了，所以我覺(jué)得其實(shí)全世界也是一個(gè)圈子。全世界也在轉(zhuǎn)，香港還挺有活力的，但是成本貴就競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力沒(méi)有那么高。像新加坡簽疫情以前其實(shí)因?yàn)樗牡厥潜容^便宜的，所以競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力比較高，但是現(xiàn)在全部都貴了，他們很明顯這幾年的餐飲活力都沒(méi)有了。

因?yàn)槲业男愿袷欠浅?nèi)向的，也不懂說(shuō)話，所以我也奇怪，我也真的不了解看上了我什么。

? 林恬耀（Jimmy Lim Tyan Yaw），JL Studio——臺(tái)中

林恬耀（Jimmy Lim Tyan Yaw）是新加坡籍廚師，在臺(tái)中開設(shè)了JL Studio，并在那里展示了對(duì)新加坡風(fēng)味的現(xiàn)代、極具個(gè)人色彩的詮釋。林恬耀在新加坡長(zhǎng)大，他的烹飪根基很早就通過(guò)家里經(jīng)營(yíng)的街頭小吃攤得以塑造。

在全球知名廚房接受訓(xùn)練后，他移居臺(tái)中，在那里他發(fā)展出了一種將東南亞傳統(tǒng)與本土食材及現(xiàn)代技術(shù)相結(jié)合的烹飪風(fēng)格。2017年，他創(chuàng)立了JL Studio，這家餐廳通過(guò)精致、富有想象力的視角，重新構(gòu)想了如laksa（叻沙）、bak kut teh（肉骨茶）和Hainanese chicken rice（海南雞飯）等經(jīng)典菜肴。餐廳約90%的農(nóng)產(chǎn)品來(lái)自本地采購(gòu)，這反映了林恬耀在尊重傳統(tǒng)風(fēng)味的同時(shí)，將美食與當(dāng)?shù)丨h(huán)境聯(lián)系起來(lái)的信念。

如今，林恬耀主廚被公認(rèn)為在國(guó)際上塑造現(xiàn)代新加坡美食的領(lǐng)軍人物，他將JL Studio作為頌揚(yáng)記憶、風(fēng)土和美食敘事的平臺(tái)。

當(dāng)他被問(wèn)到世界餐飲炙手可熱的“發(fā)酵”，他是如何看待的。他回答：“我覺(jué)得更重要的應(yīng)該是創(chuàng)作者的整個(gè)team，整個(gè)團(tuán)隊(duì)的philosophy在做的所謂的發(fā)酵，我會(huì)把它看成是用時(shí)間，去怎么養(yǎng)成我們?cè)絹?lái)越清晰的一個(gè)理念出來(lái)?！?/p>

Q：剛剛您提到你們更喜歡用當(dāng)季的食材，那怎么在這個(gè)時(shí)間的存留，我們提到的發(fā)酵，你們這邊的理念應(yīng)該是思維上手法上的累積跟陳化，而不是食材上的？

因?yàn)槲矣袝r(shí)候覺(jué)得如果你只食材或菜的方向，它有一點(diǎn)表面，因?yàn)閹缀醅F(xiàn)在社交媒體，30年前我覺(jué)得他們是很幸福，他們要學(xué)什么東西，其實(shí)只要懂得去找哪一個(gè)媒體，他們都可以講一下。

Q：我問(wèn)一個(gè)問(wèn)題，問(wèn)一些反面的，你在臺(tái)灣做到現(xiàn)代料理的創(chuàng)新和經(jīng)典的傳承，這之間你碰到了什么問(wèn)題？比如說(shuō)有什么分寸的問(wèn)題，或者是它的水土可能更喜歡傳統(tǒng)的問(wèn)題，有沒(méi)有年輕人不肯買單的問(wèn)題？

這個(gè)問(wèn)題的話我覺(jué)得比較深刻的是我剛創(chuàng)建的時(shí)候，我一直很想要做道地的味道，新加坡人口味，可是在當(dāng)?shù)氐目腿藳](méi)辦法接受。所以那時(shí)候我就一直在想說(shuō)我要怎么辦。如果我在做的事情，我不能get message across，那我是失敗的，我一直在想說(shuō)我要怎么樣去讓他們能夠理解。所以那時(shí)候才會(huì)做了調(diào)整，把味道上做了調(diào)整了，讓道地的味道這個(gè)東西要往后再來(lái)，所以要讓客人先理解我們要傳達(dá)或要做的事情。所以我記得兩三年后我才開始慢慢把味道做出來(lái)。

這是比較深刻的我遇到的challenge。我覺(jué)得不是一種妥協(xié)，因?yàn)槲乙茸屇憷斫猓褪俏矣幸粋€(gè)basement，我不能低于我的底線，那它可以退到哪里?？墒俏业倪@個(gè)退，其實(shí)如果你不退的話，你根本沒(méi)辦法往前走，因?yàn)槿绻阋恢眻?jiān)持做著我要的東西，可是大家都不明白，其實(shí)這complication是被擋住的。那如果我退一步呢，我覺(jué)得我退了那一步，我其實(shí)再往前走了兩三步。幾年后我再看我這個(gè)動(dòng)作的時(shí)候，它其實(shí)是讓我往前的一個(gè)動(dòng)作，所以未必退一步是不好的。

Q：前幾年大家對(duì)于臺(tái)灣的fine dining的現(xiàn)象，因?yàn)橛泻芏嗟膌ocal ingredients然后用了太多，但是年輕的主廚他們又還hold不住，就搞得有點(diǎn)不像，然后全部都說(shuō)臺(tái)灣味。然后這幾年就覺(jué)得是有進(jìn)步了。

如果你要說(shuō)進(jìn)步的話，我覺(jué)得是在回國(guó)的年輕人，他們有出去過(guò)去，去別的國(guó)家，然后他們回來(lái)后帶來(lái)的新的想法，因?yàn)槲矣X(jué)得愚昧的一直在講當(dāng)?shù)鼗?，在講farm to table這個(gè)東西，會(huì)變成很多人在盲從這個(gè)標(biāo)題，或者有一陣子是sustainability，大家都一直在做這個(gè)東西，真正的核心的sustainability真的有做到嗎？還是只是在做表面？這個(gè)是我們也很想要探討要看的核心問(wèn)題是什么，而不是只做字面上表面的事情。

如果你說(shuō)真的你在一個(gè)城市里面，你要說(shuō)sustainable我覺(jué)得有限，真的是很有限。不可能不用plastic對(duì)不對(duì)，食材送過(guò)來(lái)，他們廠商不用這些東西裝嗎？這是我一直在探討的問(wèn)題，甚至我們也在有去溝通過(guò)，說(shuō)能不能用少一點(diǎn)plastic，或者我們可以用一些不同的材質(zhì)的東西送來(lái)，或一直這樣重復(fù)利用…但大部分的是麻煩。所以我在看的話，我就覺(jué)得說(shuō)有時(shí)候這sustainability真的有到核心里面去嗎？！

? Chudaree 'Tam' Debhakam 與 Pantila 'Toey' Debhakam，Baan Tepa——曼谷

廚師Chudaree 'Tam' Debhakam與Pantila 'Toey' Debhakam是曼谷Baan Tepa背后的姐妹搭檔，這是一個(gè)植根于泰國(guó)傳統(tǒng)、本地食材和可持續(xù)食品體系的創(chuàng)新烹飪空間。Tam廚師最初在英國(guó)諾丁漢大學(xué)學(xué)習(xí)食品科學(xué)與營(yíng)養(yǎng)，隨后在紐約接受烹飪培訓(xùn)，并在Blue Hill at Stone Barns獲得了寶貴的經(jīng)驗(yàn)，深化了她對(duì)農(nóng)場(chǎng)驅(qū)動(dòng)型美食的熱情。之后她返回泰國(guó)，于2020年開設(shè)了Baan Tepa，旨在通過(guò)再生農(nóng)業(yè)的視角重新構(gòu)想泰國(guó)風(fēng)味。

她的姐姐Pantila 'Toey' Debhakam是Baan Tepa的聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人，并在將她們祖母的三代傳承的曼谷住宅改造成一個(gè)城市烹飪綜合體中發(fā)揮了核心作用。如今，這個(gè)院落包括Tepa廚房、Tepa花園以及修復(fù)后的祖宅，這些空間旨在讓客人接觸泰國(guó)食材、了解文化故事，并感受孕育了這種美食的土地。

Tam和Toey共同領(lǐng)導(dǎo)著Baan Tepa，使其成為一個(gè)泰國(guó)風(fēng)土、創(chuàng)造力和可持續(xù)性融合在一起的目的地，體現(xiàn)了她們家族傳承的深刻個(gè)人表達(dá)。

Q: What are your new projects at Baan Tepa?

Baan Tepa目前有哪些新項(xiàng)目？

We are currently renovating a small space at the back of the property to create a waste management centre. When it is completed, people will be able to visit and take classes to learn how to eliminate food waste and how to manage it properly at home. We want to teach people how to upcycle food scraps for their gardens or farms and show that waste can become something valuable.

我們正在翻新餐廳后院的一處小空間，打造廚余處理中心。建成后，民眾可前來(lái)參觀、參與課程，學(xué)習(xí)如何減少?gòu)N余、在家合理處理廚余垃圾。我們希望教會(huì)大家如何將廚余廢料再利用，用于自家花園或農(nóng)場(chǎng)，讓垃圾變廢為寶。

Q: What is your backup plan during inclement weather?

惡劣天氣下有備選方案嗎？

We collaborate with multiple producers who grow similar products in different areas. This allows us to adapt depending on harvest conditions. Our menu must remain flexible — we cannot serve a fixed menu or repeat the exact same dishes. Flexibility allows us to stay sustainable and continue supporting our producers throughout the year.

我們與分布在不同地區(qū)、種植同類食材的多位農(nóng)戶合作，可根據(jù)收成情況靈活調(diào)整。菜單必須保持彈性，無(wú)法采用固定菜單，也不會(huì)重復(fù)完全相同的菜品。這種靈活性既能踐行可持續(xù)理念，也能全年持續(xù)扶持合作農(nóng)戶。

Q: How do you showcase Thai culture while remaining sustainable?

如何在踐行可持續(xù)的同時(shí)展現(xiàn)泰國(guó)文化？

We use traditional Thai techniques such as pickling vegetables and making curry pastes, but we reinterpret them through different methods. For example, our Blackened Curry applies a long fermentation process similar in spirit to mole, but rooted in Thai ingredients. We take what we learn from tradition and apply our own craft.

我們沿用腌菜、制作咖喱醬等泰國(guó)傳統(tǒng)技法，再用全新方式重新詮釋。比如招牌黑咖喱，采用長(zhǎng)時(shí)間發(fā)酵工藝，理念近似墨西哥莫雷醬，卻以泰國(guó)本土食材為根基。我們從傳統(tǒng)中汲取養(yǎng)分，再融入自身的烹飪技藝。

Q: Can you tell us more about the waste management centre?

能詳細(xì)介紹一下廚余處理中心嗎？

We have invested both time and money into learning how to use machines to break down food waste more efficiently. Previously, everything was done by hand. Now, machines help process difficult waste like shells, making composting more manageable. With the help of effective microbes, the waste breaks down into compost and becomes topsoil in about six months. This project is not just about sustainability — it is about understanding what we can do better as a restaurant.

我們投入了大量時(shí)間與資金，學(xué)習(xí)用設(shè)備更高效地分解廚余。此前全靠人工操作，如今設(shè)備可處理貝殼這類難處理的廢料，讓堆肥更易實(shí)施。借助有效微生物，廚余會(huì)分解為堆肥，約六個(gè)月后轉(zhuǎn)化為表土。這個(gè)項(xiàng)目不止關(guān)乎可持續(xù)發(fā)展，更是探索作為餐廳，我們?nèi)绾巫龅酶谩?/p>

Q: As two women leading a restaurant, do you find the industry restrictive?

作為兩位執(zhí)掌餐廳的女性，是否覺(jué)得行業(yè)存在束縛？

Professional kitchens have traditionally been male-dominated, and that can create power imbalances. However, we see change happening. There is a new generation coming in, and more female chefs are emerging. Through collaborations, we see stronger female representation, and we hope the future will continue to improve.

專業(yè)廚房向來(lái)由男性主導(dǎo)，容易形成權(quán)力失衡。不過(guò)我們能看到行業(yè)正在改變：新一代從業(yè)者崛起，越來(lái)越多女性主廚嶄露頭角。通過(guò)各類合作，女性身影愈發(fā)亮眼，我們期待未來(lái)行業(yè)環(huán)境持續(xù)向好。

? Hussain Shahzad、Aksha Nair 與 Sameer Seth，Papa's——孟買

Papa's是位于孟買班德拉的一家僅有12個(gè)座位的私密Chef's Counter（主廚餐桌）式餐廳，由Hunger Inc. Hospitality團(tuán)隊(duì)創(chuàng)建。由行政總廚Hussain Shahzad、客戶關(guān)系主管Aksha Nair以及創(chuàng)始人兼首席執(zhí)行官Sameer Seth領(lǐng)導(dǎo)，該餐廳以其充滿趣味、注重風(fēng)味的印度菜以及溫暖、充滿個(gè)性的用餐體驗(yàn)而聞名。

Hussain Shahzad：This is a 50-year-old bakery, and we only offer services four nights a week for 12 people at a time. This gives us the freedom to be uncompromising with our culinary experience. We all grew up working in fine dining restaurants across the world—we’ve worked in New York, for instance. I worked in New York, and we’ve had a wide range of experiences: he’s worked with Danny Meyer, Danny Blue, and at other renowned spots, and I’ve honed my skills at restaurants like 11 Madison Park. We draw on all these collective experiences, keeping only the parts we love the most, the parts that made us enjoy working in this industry. With that in mind, we created this restaurant.

這是一家有五十年歷史的烘焙坊，我們的餐飲服務(wù)僅每周開放四晚，每次僅接待12位客人。這讓我們有底氣在打造餐飲體驗(yàn)時(shí)堅(jiān)守本心、絕不妥協(xié)。我們都在世界各地的高端餐廳深耕成長(zhǎng)，比如都曾在紐約工作過(guò)。我在紐約積累了經(jīng)驗(yàn)，我們的經(jīng)歷各有不同：他曾與丹尼·梅耶、丹尼·布魯?shù)葮I(yè)界大咖共事，也任職于多家知名餐廳，而我則在麥迪遜公園11號(hào)這類名店打磨過(guò)技藝。我們匯聚所有的集體經(jīng)驗(yàn)，只保留其中最熱愛(ài)、最能讓我們享受工作的部分，并以此為核心打造了這家餐廳。

Sameer Seth：To give you some context, this is what it’s like: it’s a 12-seat chef’s counter, an intimate space with just one chef leading the experience.

給大家看一下，我們的餐廳是這樣的：一個(gè)僅設(shè)12個(gè)座位的主廚吧臺(tái)，一方私密空間，由一位主廚全程主導(dǎo)用餐體驗(yàn)。

Hussain Shahzad：We take those cherished elements of our past experiences and curate a dining experience for our guests that evolves daily. We study our guests, understand their needs and desires, and tailor the entire experience around them.

我們萃取過(guò)往經(jīng)歷中那些珍貴的精髓，為客人打造每日煥新的定制化用餐體驗(yàn)。我們了解每位客人的情況，讀懂他們的需求與期許，再以此為核心量身打造全程體驗(yàn)。

Q：You mentioned staying true to your core while letting go of what you don’t like.So what parts of your life and what kind of dining experience are we talking about?

你剛才提到，要堅(jiān)守本心，舍棄自己不認(rèn)同的東西。具體來(lái)說(shuō)，是舍棄了生活里的哪些部分，又想要打造怎樣的用餐體驗(yàn)?zāi)兀?/p>

Hussain Shahzad：The parts I never liked about fine dining, especially after a certain point, were that it was becoming too stiff and solemn. We knew we didn’t want to keep those aspects. Going out to eat should be fun, a little adventurous, and entertaining at the same time—those are the parts we’ve kept, and the rest, we’ve let go of. If I had to define Papa's, it’s about fun and being unpretentious. We don’t follow any of the rules of a traditional fine dining restaurant. There are no white tablecloths, no stiffness, no rigid etiquette about how you have to eat. Every part of the experience is fun, unpretentious through and through.

我一直不喜歡高端餐飲的一點(diǎn)是，尤其在某個(gè)階段后，它變得越來(lái)越刻板、沉悶。這些特質(zhì)我們堅(jiān)決摒棄。外出用餐本就該充滿樂(lè)趣，帶點(diǎn)冒險(xiǎn)感，同時(shí)兼具體驗(yàn)感——這些才是我們保留的核心，其余的便都舍棄了。如果要用關(guān)鍵詞定義Papa's，那就是有趣、真誠(chéng)。我們不遵循傳統(tǒng)高端餐廳的任何條條框框，沒(méi)有潔白的桌布，沒(méi)有刻板的氛圍，也沒(méi)有嚴(yán)苛的用餐禮儀。這場(chǎng)體驗(yàn)的每一個(gè)環(huán)節(jié)，都充滿樂(lè)趣，始終保持純粹的真誠(chéng)。

Aksha Nair：It’s fine without the fuss.

這是褪去繁文縟節(jié)的高端餐飲。

Q：What are the few words would you use to describe Papa's style when crafting this dining experience, this creative addition?

那在打造這場(chǎng)用餐體驗(yàn)、這份創(chuàng)意之作時(shí)，你會(huì)用哪些詞形容Papa's的風(fēng)格？

Hussain Shahzad：The few words I’d use to frame it—first and foremost, there are no rules. And it’s unpretentious, not gimmicky at all.

我想用這幾個(gè)詞來(lái)詮釋這份體驗(yàn)，首先最核心的，就是打破常規(guī)。其次是真誠(chéng)，毫無(wú)刻意的噱頭。

Sameer Seth：I like the word context. Because what always matters is understanding the current landscape: food has always existed, Indian cuisine has always existed, fine dining has always existed. What do today’s diners and guests want? What are they truly interested in? That’s what drives us and keeps us excited. For example, when we were opening the restaurant, we talked about this—all of us here at this table have been fortunate enough to travel the world and eat at the best restaurants. But a formula has emerged: you have to sit for three or four hours, eat 20 courses, and so on.

我喜歡用一個(gè)詞：貼合當(dāng)下。因?yàn)檎嬲匾?，是讀懂當(dāng)下的餐飲格局：美食由來(lái)已久，印度料理由來(lái)已久，高端餐飲也由來(lái)已久。如今的食客們想要什么？他們真正感興趣的是什么？這才是驅(qū)動(dòng)我們、讓我們滿懷熱忱的根源。比如我們籌備這家餐廳時(shí)，大家就聊到過(guò)這件事——在座的我們都有幸走遍世界，品嘗過(guò)各地頂級(jí)餐廳的美味。但如今高端餐飲卻形成了固定模式：食客必須坐上三四小時(shí)，吃完二十道菜品，諸如此類。

So we asked ourselves, how can we make this more interesting?Akshaand her team do an incredible job of entertaining guests throughout the meal, and there are small, hidden touches woven into the experience as it unfolds. I don’t want to give everything away—I’d rather you come in and experience it for yourselves. But context is so important, and we also tailor the experience for specific diners every single day.

于是我們不禁自問(wèn)，該如何讓這份體驗(yàn)變得更有趣？Aksha和她的團(tuán)隊(duì)在用餐全程為客人帶來(lái)了妙趣橫生的體驗(yàn)，用餐的過(guò)程中，還藏著許多不期而遇的小驚喜。我不想把所有美好都劇透，更希望大家親自前來(lái)感受。但貼合當(dāng)下的核心始終至關(guān)重要，我們也會(huì)為每位客人量身打造專屬的每日體驗(yàn)。

Aksha Nair： If I could add one more word to Papa's, it would be intention—the intention with which we work, the intention with which we connect with our diners. This is especially true for us when it comes to personalized experiences, which we do a lot of. It’s not about being fancy; we simply have the freedom to get to know the guests who are coming in. We don’t spend a lot of money on these touches, just small things: writing a handwritten note and tucking it under a napkin, celebrating their small wins, little gestures of that sort.It’s all about making them feel like we see, and we stay with you.

如果還要為Papa's添一個(gè)關(guān)鍵詞，那便是用心——做事的用心，與食客聯(lián)結(jié)的用心。在打造個(gè)性化體驗(yàn)這一點(diǎn)上，我們更是將這份用心做到了極致。這無(wú)關(guān)花哨的形式，只是我們有幸能去了解每一位前來(lái)的客人。我們不會(huì)為這些心意花費(fèi)重金，只是一些小事：手寫一張便簽悄悄壓在餐巾下，為客人的點(diǎn)滴成就送上祝福，諸如此類的暖心小舉動(dòng)。這一切都是讓客人感受到被重視被看見(jiàn)，讓他們覺(jué)得用餐的全程，我們都始終相伴左右。

Sameer Seth：One of my favorite examples of this was a guest who was an artist, someone we knew was coming in. The restaurant has small frames on the walls, so we replaced the artwork in those frames with his pieces. He noticed it mid-meal, suddenly seeing his own art on our walls, and he was obviously so surprised. We’d intentionally planned to surprise him that day. It’s these small things that make the experience so much more memorable and unique. The food is delicious, the drinks are great, the service is amazing—but it’s those little extra touches that make it truly unforgettable.

我印象最深的一件事，是接待一位早已知曉身份的藝術(shù)家客人。餐廳的墻上掛著一些小相框，我們便把框里的作品換成了他的畫作。用餐中途，他突然發(fā)現(xiàn)墻上掛著自己的作品，那份驚喜溢于言表。這是我們當(dāng)天特意為他準(zhǔn)備的驚喜。正是這些小事，讓用餐體驗(yàn)變得格外難忘、獨(dú)一無(wú)二。菜品美味、飲品佳釀、服務(wù)周到，而這些暖心的小細(xì)節(jié)，才讓這份體驗(yàn)變得真正刻骨銘心。

Q：Let’s bring back to today’s topic: time is the craft. Do you agree with that? Because all this design and all these details—you can only deliver this level of experience if you invest more time in each group, each guest, compared to other fine dining restaurants. Do you think you put in more time than others?

我們回到今天的主題：時(shí)間的技藝。你是否認(rèn)同這個(gè)觀點(diǎn)？因?yàn)檫@般設(shè)計(jì)、這些細(xì)節(jié)，相比其他高端餐廳，你必須為每一桌、每一位客人投入更多時(shí)間，才能打造出這樣的體驗(yàn)。你認(rèn)為自己是否比同行投入了更多的時(shí)間？

Sameer Seth：I think we do invest a lot of time to be able to do that. We opened two years ago, and Aksha has been here since day one. We only serve 12 guests at a time, so it’s almost like what we were talking about last night—like theater.

我認(rèn)為我們確實(shí)為這份體驗(yàn)投入了大量時(shí)間。我們開業(yè)兩年了，Aksha從籌備之初便一直堅(jiān)守在這里。我們每次僅接待12位客人，這份體驗(yàn)就像我們昨晚聊到的，宛如一場(chǎng)專屬的舞臺(tái)戲劇。

Aksha Nair：I don’t think people go out to eat just to eat anymore; they want to have an experience. We’re extremely fortunate to be able to create that for them, and the restaurant is only open four nights a week, too. I use my three non-operational days wisely: one day is for wrapping up post-service work, and the other two are for learning more about our upcoming guests—what they do, sometimes even looking them up online, just to find out their likes and dislikes. This helps us so much in crafting their experience, and we do invest that time. But trust me, it’s all worth it when we see their reactions—the smiles, the surprise, that’s all we want.

如今的人們外出用餐，早已不只是為了果腹，而是為了擁有一場(chǎng)獨(dú)特的體驗(yàn)。我們無(wú)比幸運(yùn)，能為客人打造這樣的體驗(yàn)，而我們的餐廳也僅每周開放四晚。我會(huì)好好利用每周三天的休業(yè)時(shí)間：一天處理餐后的收尾工作，另外兩天則用來(lái)了解即將到店的客人——了解他們的職業(yè)，有時(shí)也會(huì)在網(wǎng)上看看相關(guān)信息，只為摸清他們的喜好與偏愛(ài)。這些信息對(duì)我們打造專屬體驗(yàn)幫助極大，我們也愿意為這份用心投入時(shí)間。但相信我，當(dāng)看到客人的反應(yīng)，看到他們的笑容與驚喜，所有的付出都值得，這就是我們想要的一切。

So our investment of time also enriches the time our guests spend here. The time diners spend in our restaurant feels different from their perspective—it probably feels like a longer, happier stretch of time. Because when you’re in a happy situation, you can go faster or shorter. It's not linear.

我們投入的這些時(shí)間，也讓客人的用餐時(shí)光變得更有意義。我想在食客眼中，在我們餐廳的時(shí)光一定格外特別，或許會(huì)是一段更悠長(zhǎng)、更愉悅的時(shí)光。因?yàn)樯硖幟篮玫那榫爸?，時(shí)間便不再是線性流淌，它會(huì)忽而飛逝，忽而緩慢。

Hussain Shahzad：When guests come to Papa’s and spend about three hours with us, that’s a huge responsibility for us—to keep them engaged and delighted for that entire time. And those three hours of their time represent about 30 or 40 hours of our work behind the scenes, because it’s like theater. In theater, you have to practice, do dry runs, make sure everyone knows their role. You’ve seen the space—it’s a really small, tight space. So every detail is measured: the distance between us and the guests, every action we take, every word we say. As I said, everything is done with immense intention and thought. It’s a beautiful performance that you get to be a part of, paired with great drinks and incredible food—simple as that.

當(dāng)客人來(lái)到Papa's餐廳，與我們共度約三小時(shí)的時(shí)光，這對(duì)我們而言是一份沉甸甸的責(zé)任，我們要讓客人在這全程都保持愉悅，沉浸在體驗(yàn)之中。而客人這三小時(shí)的體驗(yàn)，背后是我們?nèi)氖r(shí)的幕后付出，因?yàn)檫@份體驗(yàn)就像一場(chǎng)戲劇。戲劇需要反復(fù)排練、彩排，確保每位演員都各司其職。你也見(jiàn)過(guò)我們的空間，小巧而緊湊。所以這里的每一個(gè)細(xì)節(jié)都經(jīng)過(guò)精準(zhǔn)考量：我們與客人之間的距離，每一個(gè)動(dòng)作，每一句話。正如我所說(shuō)，一切都飽含用心與思考。這場(chǎng)體驗(yàn)，就是一場(chǎng)美妙的演出，你是其中的觀眾，伴之而來(lái)的還有醇美的飲品與極致的美味，僅此而已。

Q：Just as you mentioned that you strip things down, you don’t follow the so-called fine dining format. From your perspective, how do you build your unique dining experience? Nowadays, Indian chefs are trying to minimize Western influences and maximize Indian influences—including cooking techniques. For example, there’s an Indian restaurant in Bangkok that minimizes Western cooking techniques and uses a lot of Indian techniques to create their modern cuisine.So what about yours? Also, your restaurant is only open four nights a week for 12 guests at a time—how do you keep the business sustainable and busy?

你提到會(huì)褪去繁冗，不遵循所謂的高端餐飲固定模式。在你看來(lái)，該如何打造獨(dú)屬于自己的用餐體驗(yàn)？如今印度主廚們都在嘗試弱化西方飲食的影響，強(qiáng)化印度本土的飲食特色，這其中也包括烹飪技法。比如曼谷有一家印度餐廳，就弱化了西方烹飪技法的使用，大量運(yùn)用印度本土技法，打造屬于自己的現(xiàn)代印度料理。那你的理念是怎樣的？另外，你的餐廳每周僅開放四晚，每次僅接待12位客人，該如何讓生意保持穩(wěn)定經(jīng)營(yíng)、實(shí)現(xiàn)可持續(xù)發(fā)展？

Sameer Seth：I can answer that quickly. First, this is actually an 80-year-old bakery. On the ground floor, we run a sandwich shop called Veronicas. It has 28 seats and serves 3,000 to 4,000 people a day. That’s what keeps the business going—it covers the rent and makes the entire operation very sustainable. And Papa’s is hidden inside Veronicas, which allows us to operate it only four nights a week, serving just our intimate group of guests.

我可以簡(jiǎn)單回答這兩個(gè)問(wèn)題。首先，這里其實(shí)是一家有八十年歷史的烘焙坊，我們?cè)谝粯墙?jīng)營(yíng)著一家名為維羅妮卡的三明治小店，有28個(gè)座位，每日接待三千至四千位客人。正是這家小店支撐著整體的運(yùn)營(yíng)，支付租金，讓整個(gè)品牌實(shí)現(xiàn)了可持續(xù)發(fā)展。而Papa's就藏在這家三明治店里，這也讓我們能做到每周僅開放四晚，只為小范圍的客人打造專屬體驗(yàn)。

Hussain Shahzad：That’s how we achieve economic sustainability. Now, to answer your question about maximizing Indian influences: earlier on, we didn’t look to the West as much for inspiration, as we were deep in exploring the essence of Indian cuisine. Sorry, that’s a great question, and I’ll elaborate. Once, we were always looking to the West for inspiration and validation, but those days are gone. Now, we’re really proud of our heritage and we want to show it off. As Indian chefs, we have so much more confidence to say, “This is our food, this is our land, this is where we come from, this is who we are.”

這就是我們實(shí)現(xiàn)經(jīng)濟(jì)可持續(xù)的方式。至于關(guān)于強(qiáng)化印度本土飲食特色的問(wèn)題，其實(shí)早些時(shí)候，我們就不再過(guò)多向西方尋求靈感，而是潛心探索印度料理的精髓。抱歉，這是個(gè)很好的問(wèn)題，我再細(xì)說(shuō)一下。曾經(jīng)，我們總想著向西方尋求靈感與認(rèn)可，但那些日子早已過(guò)去。如今，我們?yōu)樽约旱谋就廖幕z產(chǎn)深感自豪，也想要將它展現(xiàn)給世界。作為印度主廚，我們?nèi)缃駬碛凶銐虻牡讱庹f(shuō)出：“這是我們的美食，這是我們的故土，這是我們的根，這就是我們的模樣。”

Today, we have the strength of voice to say that, and restaurants like Papa’s give us the platform to amplify that message. Indian food is having a moment on the global stage, and I think Papa’s is a restaurant that’s pushing that forward—standing confidently for Indian food on a global scale.

如今，我們有了發(fā)出自己聲音的底氣，而Papa's這樣的餐廳，就是我們向世界傳遞這份理念的平臺(tái)。印度美食正站在世界的舞臺(tái)上綻放光彩，而Papa's正朝著這個(gè)方向努力，讓印度美食在全球舞臺(tái)上擁有屬于自己的底氣與光芒。

Sameer Seth：I also don’t think it’s an either/or situation: it’s not about Indian influence versus Western influence. Again, it all comes down to context. For a particular dish, a particular experience, a particular drink—you use what makes sense in that moment. We all have the opportunity to work all over the world, then come back to India, a country we grew up in. Our minds are an amalgamation of all these experiences, so we use what feels right, not because we’re trying to maximize one influence and minimize another. And when what you create feels authentic to you, it feels great to the guests too. That’s what brings joy and delight to the dining experience.

我也始終認(rèn)為，這并非非此即彼的選擇，不是一定要在印度本土與西方的影響之間二選一。歸根結(jié)底，還是要貼合當(dāng)下的需求。一道菜品，一場(chǎng)體驗(yàn)，一杯飲品，選擇當(dāng)下最契合的方式就好。我們都曾有機(jī)會(huì)走遍世界工作，而后回到生養(yǎng)我們的印度，我們的思維與理念，本就是這些經(jīng)歷的融合。所以我們會(huì)選擇內(nèi)心認(rèn)為最契合的方式，而非刻意去強(qiáng)化某一種影響、弱化另一種。當(dāng)你打造的一切都忠于本心、真實(shí)純粹時(shí)，客人也能感受到這份美好。而這，就是讓用餐體驗(yàn)充滿愉悅與驚喜的關(guān)鍵。

? Ray Adriansyah，Locavore NXT——烏布

Ray Adriansyah是巴厘島烏布Locavore NXT的印度尼西亞籍廚師兼聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人——這是印度尼西亞最具影響力和以可持續(xù)發(fā)展為驅(qū)動(dòng)力的餐飲項(xiàng)目之一。Ray出生于雅加達(dá)，父母是蘇門答臘人，他通過(guò)母親的廚房培養(yǎng)了對(duì)烹飪的早期熱情，后來(lái)從商科學(xué)習(xí)轉(zhuǎn)向在新西蘭基督城接受烹飪培訓(xùn)?；氐窖偶舆_(dá)后，他遇到了荷蘭廚師Eelke Plasmeijer，兩人建立的伙伴關(guān)系最終重塑了巴厘島的烹飪格局。

他們的最新項(xiàng)目Locavore NXT代表了一次雄心勃勃的進(jìn)化——將超本地采購(gòu)、零浪費(fèi)系統(tǒng)、屋頂食物森林和創(chuàng)新的烹飪研究集于一體。Ray的烹飪體現(xiàn)了對(duì)印尼風(fēng)味的深深敬意、對(duì)可持續(xù)實(shí)踐的堅(jiān)持，以及為美食打造一個(gè)更負(fù)責(zé)任未來(lái)的承諾。

So compared to the old one, the new restaurant is completely different. Like you were saying, we had so many limitations from the old one. When we knew we wanted to open another restaurant, we just missed what we wanted. And then we came up with everything. So in parallel, like you were saying, I guess experience is very important, your favorite lab. We have a bar, of course, a mushroom chamber where we grow our own mushrooms. There are combinations, departments, we are in details. The benefit can be R&D, and we have our own staff campaign, our own wage system, a little garden for the staff, and then the main dining source. Is it hard to book? It's off season right now. So I guess we do have guests from Hong Kong, China, Taiwan, and it's all over the world. It's popular. I hope so.

所以和老店相比，新店完全不一樣。就像你說(shuō)的，老店有太多局限。當(dāng)我們決定再開一家餐廳時(shí)，就是想彌補(bǔ)之前沒(méi)能實(shí)現(xiàn)的東西，然后把所有想法都落地。同時(shí)，正如你所說(shuō)，經(jīng)驗(yàn)非常重要，這里就像你最愛(ài)的實(shí)驗(yàn)場(chǎng)地。我們?cè)O(shè)有酒吧，還有一間菌菇培育房自己種菌菇。店內(nèi)功能分區(qū)清晰、相互配合，我們非常注重細(xì)節(jié)。優(yōu)勢(shì)體現(xiàn)在研發(fā)上，我們有自己的員工激勵(lì)方案、薪酬體系，還有員工小花園，以及主用餐區(qū)。位子難訂嗎？現(xiàn)在是淡季。不過(guò)我們依然有來(lái)自中國(guó)港澳臺(tái)以及世界各地的客人。餐廳很受歡迎，希望一直如此。

From the old local board to the new ones, I think I like the word "responsibility" a little bit better. That means in every area in the global world, 98% of our immediate ingredients are from local. We focused in Bali, but we've been getting produce from surrounding us. Yeah, but I want to say things a bit better, I think.

從過(guò)去的本地經(jīng)營(yíng)模式到現(xiàn)在的新店，我更認(rèn)可“責(zé)任”這個(gè)詞。也就是說(shuō)，放眼全球范圍，我們98%的常用食材都產(chǎn)自本地。我們主打巴厘島風(fēng)格，但食材均取自本地周邊。嗯，我想把這點(diǎn)表達(dá)得更恰當(dāng)一些。

Now the waste system in our restaurant is really better than before. I hope everything is definitely better than before, anything you name it. It's more detail-focused. Now with the accommodation teams, it really helps with dealing with the waste system now more than before. So we tried to make everything significant. But no admissions, the target is to make you feel better than before.

現(xiàn)在餐廳的垃圾處理系統(tǒng)比以前好很多。我希望所有方面都比以前更好，但凡能想到的地方都是如此。我們更注重細(xì)節(jié)。如今有配套團(tuán)隊(duì)協(xié)助，垃圾處理比以往順暢很多。我們力求讓每一處都做得有價(jià)值。不對(duì)外售票，我們的目標(biāo)是讓大家的體驗(yàn)比以前更好。

What's the reason for starting this project? I think the first reason is we all wanted to have a dream restaurant. The old one had about 35 seats. And there's not much happening. There's so much limitation. The space was too small. The dining room was too small. And then for us, I think the sustainability side was not there. The reason is we want to tackle the challenges and the frustrations. And then we wanted to make our own dream projects.

為什么啟動(dòng)這個(gè)項(xiàng)目？首要原因是我們都想打造一家理想中的餐廳。老店只有約35個(gè)座位，能做的事情很有限，處處受限?？臻g太小，用餐區(qū)也太小。而且對(duì)我們來(lái)說(shuō)，老店在可持續(xù)性方面是缺失的。我們想直面這些挑戰(zhàn)與遺憾，打造屬于自己的理想項(xiàng)目。

#50BEST TALKS 扎根亞洲

這個(gè)部分，其實(shí)是個(gè)亞洲50佳餐廳的公開演講環(huán)節(jié)，跟圓桌會(huì)不同的是，各個(gè)嘉賓是獨(dú)立輸出的，會(huì)帶著ppt。雖然互動(dòng)的樂(lè)趣少一些，我就當(dāng)課聽(tīng)。

Lesley Liu (Head Sommelier, Odette, Singapore)：

“Roots are not only where we come from. They are how we respond to where we stand.”

劉家旻（新加坡Odette餐廳首席侍酒師）：

“根不僅是我們的來(lái)處，更是我們?nèi)绾位貞?yīng)立足的當(dāng)下?！?/p>

Thanks for spending your beautiful afternoon with us. I’m the first presenter on stage today. My work involves visiting many restaurants in Singapore, which means my job is about drinking wine, thinking about wines, and talking about wines. But today, instead of only talking about wines, I’m here to share with you a topic: Look in Asia.

感謝大家共度這個(gè)美好的下午。我是今天的第一位演講者。我的工作需要走訪新加坡的眾多餐廳，這意味著我的日常就是品鑒葡萄酒、思考葡萄酒、談?wù)撈咸丫?。但今天，我不想只聊葡萄酒，而是想和大家分享一個(gè)主題：放眼亞洲。

Key Highlights:

?Lesley Liu’s understanding of “rooted” begins inNantou, Taiwan, where she grew up surrounded by mountains, water and mist, shaping her earliest connection to place and nature

?Over time, she realised that beyond natural environment, the most important resources arepeople, mentorship and trust, which continue to shape her journey across Taiwan, Shanghai and Singapore

?Early mentorship played a defining role in her development, teaching her that wine is not just about the bottle, but abouthow it is experienced, presented and shared

?At Odette, she was given the trust to build the wine program freely, selecting wines based onquality, origin and story, and aligning them closely with the structure of the menu

?Her approach to pairing reflects personal memory and cultural perspective, where even classical French dishes can be interpreted throughAsian flavour memories and experiences

?This led her to a central question:“What does Asia taste like in the language of wine?”— driving her exploration of wines across the region

?Highlights emerging wine regions across Asia, including Thailand, Japan, China and India, where wines are not imitations but expressions oflocal climate, culture and landscape

?Emphasises that these wines should not be compared to traditional benchmarks, but appreciated for theirown identity and sense of place

?Ultimately, she sees “rooted” as an evolving journey, where her roots begin in Nantou, grow through mentorship, and extend into her belief inAsian wines and their place in global gastronomy

?Through wine, she expresses rootedness as something to beshared, connecting place, people and personal story in every glass

核心亮點(diǎn)

?劉家旻對(duì)“根植本土”的理解，始于她成長(zhǎng)的臺(tái)灣南投——山水氤氳的環(huán)境，構(gòu)筑了她與土地、自然最初的聯(lián)結(jié)。

?久而久之她意識(shí)到，除自然環(huán)境外，人、導(dǎo)師的指引與彼此的信任才是最重要的財(cái)富，這些始終塑造著她在臺(tái)灣、上海、新加坡的職業(yè)旅程。

?早期的導(dǎo)師指導(dǎo)對(duì)她的成長(zhǎng)至關(guān)重要，讓她明白葡萄酒不僅是一瓶飲品，更關(guān)乎品鑒體驗(yàn)、呈現(xiàn)方式與分享的過(guò)程。

?在Odette餐廳，她獲得充分信任，可自主打造葡萄酒酒單，依據(jù)品質(zhì)、產(chǎn)地與背后故事選酒，并與菜單結(jié)構(gòu)深度契合。

?她的餐酒搭配理念融入個(gè)人記憶與文化視角，即便是經(jīng)典法式菜肴，也能透過(guò)亞洲的味覺(jué)記憶與體驗(yàn)來(lái)詮釋。

?這讓她提出核心問(wèn)題：“用葡萄酒的語(yǔ)言，該如何詮釋亞洲的味道？”——這一問(wèn)題推動(dòng)著她探索整個(gè)亞洲地區(qū)的葡萄酒。

?她重點(diǎn)介紹了泰國(guó)、日本、中國(guó)、印度等亞洲新興葡萄酒產(chǎn)區(qū)，這些產(chǎn)區(qū)的葡萄酒并非模仿之作，而是當(dāng)?shù)貧夂颉⑽幕c地貌的表達(dá)。

?她強(qiáng)調(diào)，不應(yīng)將這些葡萄酒與傳統(tǒng)標(biāo)桿作比較，而應(yīng)欣賞其獨(dú)有的特質(zhì)與地域?qū)傩浴?/p>

?最終，她將“根植本土”視為一場(chǎng)不斷演進(jìn)的旅程：根源始于南投，在導(dǎo)師的指引下成長(zhǎng)，并延伸為她對(duì)亞洲葡萄酒的信念，以及其在全球美食界的定位。

?她以葡萄酒為載體，詮釋“根植本土”的共享性，讓每一杯酒都聯(lián)結(jié)起土地、人群與個(gè)人故事。

Prateek Sadhu (Founder & Head Chef, Naar, India印度Naar餐廳創(chuàng)始人&主廚):
“Rooted is not nostalgia. It is accountability — to land, to people, to the future.”

“扎根本土并非懷舊，而是一種責(zé)任——對(duì)土地、對(duì)人民、對(duì)未來(lái)的責(zé)任。”

Cooking at 6000ft

The Loudest sound in my kitchen is the wind......

在 6000 英尺烹飪

我廚房里最響的聲音是風(fēng)聲......（這句話讓我太感動(dòng)了）

You must get this and I thought after the talk, we will have not maybe just one shot of this. All of this is liquor that I know it’s a spirit that’s 6,000 years old, made from a flower grown in Indonesian communities. It can taste of the land, or taste of the flower itself. So after that, as I said, we’ll go to the back and take a serving of this. But honestly, I was very nervous, and I’ve been studying this topic.

你們必須試試這個(gè)，而且我覺(jué)得此次分享之后，我們可能不會(huì)只喝一小杯了。這種烈酒我知道是一種有6000年歷史的酒，用印尼社群中的一種花釀成。它可以是土地的滋味，也可以是花朵的滋味。所以等下，正如我說(shuō)的，我們會(huì)去后面喝一小杯這個(gè)。但說(shuō)實(shí)話，我非常緊張，而且我一直在研究這個(gè)主題。

It must be a part of the landscape if people are to understand them, and we often romanticize the idea of “rootedness.” But being rooted isn’t steady, it doesn’t vary structure. If snow blocks the road to our supply chains...

如果人們想要真正理解它，就必須成為這片風(fēng)土的一部分，而我們也常常把“扎根”這個(gè)詞浪漫化了。但扎根并非一種穩(wěn)定的狀態(tài)，它在結(jié)構(gòu)上變化。如果大雪阻斷了通往我們供應(yīng)鏈的道路…

Key Highlights:

?Prateek Sadhu explores the theme “rooted” through the reality of building and operating Restaurant Naar at 6,000 feet in the Himalayas, where the environment directly shapes every decision

?His journey is grounded in place, surrounded by forests, farms and communities where food traditions have existed long before restaurants, and where sustainability is not a concept but a way of life

?Emphasizes that in a remote landscape, a restaurant cannot exist independently but must become part ofits ecosystem, its people and its natural rhythm

?Reframes “rooted” as something structural rather than aesthetic, where factors such as weather, supply and land conditions directly define the menu and operations
?If roads are blocked, supply stops
?If harvests change, the menu adapts
?If the land suffers, the restaurant is affected

?Introduces a core mindset shift: instead of asking “what to cook,” the question becomes“what will grow here”, with remoteness acting as a filter that drives clarity and purpose

?Anchors his approach intime and place, where seasons are not flexible but directive, and ingredients are used only when they are naturally available

?Advocates for restraint as a form of alignment, choosing not to import luxury ingredients or replicate global trends, but to respect the context of the mountains

?Guided by a simple principle:“Does this make sense at 6,000 feet?”

?Sees constraints as essential to creativity, where discipline, repetition and precision lead to a deeper form of freedom in cooking

?Acknowledges the realities of remote dining, including high costs, logistical challenges and unpredictability, but emphasises that these challenges createstronger connection, clarity and relevance

?Redefines rootedness not as staying still, but as an active process ofparticipation, questioning and evolution, carrying tradition forward with intention rather than simply preserving it

核心亮點(diǎn)

?Prateek Sadhu以在喜馬拉雅山脈6000英尺高地打造并運(yùn)營(yíng)Naar餐廳的實(shí)際經(jīng)歷，探索“根植本土”的主題，當(dāng)?shù)丨h(huán)境直接決定著每一個(gè)經(jīng)營(yíng)決策。

?他的職業(yè)之路深深扎根于這片土地，這里的森林、農(nóng)場(chǎng)與社群，在餐廳出現(xiàn)前就已有悠久的飲食傳統(tǒng)，可持續(xù)發(fā)展也并非抽象概念，而是生活方式。

?他強(qiáng)調(diào)，在偏遠(yuǎn)地區(qū)，餐廳無(wú)法獨(dú)立存在，必須融入當(dāng)?shù)氐纳鷳B(tài)系統(tǒng)、人群與自然節(jié)律。

?他將“根植本土”重新定義為一種結(jié)構(gòu)性的存在，而非單純的美學(xué)表達(dá)——天氣、食材供應(yīng)、土地狀況等因素，直接決定了菜單與餐廳運(yùn)營(yíng)。

?道路受阻，食材供應(yīng)便中斷；

?收成變化，菜單便隨之調(diào)整；

?土地受損，餐廳也會(huì)受到影響。

?他提出核心思維轉(zhuǎn)變：不再問(wèn)“該做什么菜”，而是問(wèn)“這里能生長(zhǎng)什么”，偏遠(yuǎn)的地理位置如同過(guò)濾器，讓經(jīng)營(yíng)的目標(biāo)與方向愈發(fā)清晰。

?他的烹飪理念緊扣時(shí)空屬性，季節(jié)并非可靈活調(diào)整的因素，而是硬性指引，食材僅在自然成熟時(shí)取用。

?他主張以克制實(shí)現(xiàn)與本土的契合，不進(jìn)口高端食材、不照搬全球潮流，而是尊重山區(qū)的地域背景。

?他的行事遵循一個(gè)簡(jiǎn)單原則：“這在6000英尺的高地合情合理嗎？”

?他認(rèn)為限制是創(chuàng)造力的核心要素，自律、反復(fù)的打磨與精準(zhǔn)的把控，能帶來(lái)更深刻的烹飪創(chuàng)作自由。

?他承認(rèn)偏遠(yuǎn)地區(qū)經(jīng)營(yíng)餐飲的現(xiàn)實(shí)難題：成本高昂、物流困難、存在諸多不可預(yù)測(cè)性，但強(qiáng)調(diào)這些挑戰(zhàn)讓餐廳與本土的聯(lián)結(jié)更緊密，經(jīng)營(yíng)方向更清晰、更具本土價(jià)值。

?他重新定義“根植本土”：并非停滯不前，而是主動(dòng)參與、不斷質(zhì)疑、持續(xù)演進(jìn)的過(guò)程，以明確的初心傳承傳統(tǒng)，而非單純固守。

Peggy Chan (Champions of Change Award Winner 2026, Zero Foodprint Asia, Hong Kong)：

More being rooted, in place, in soil, in responsibility.

陳碧琪（2026年“變革獎(jiǎng)”得主，香港亞洲零碳足食執(zhí)行董事）：

“更深地扎根，扎根于這片土地、這片土壤，扎根于這份責(zé)任?！?/p>

Beyond the Plate: Chefs as Architecture in a Regenerative Future

餐盤之外：在可持續(xù)發(fā)展的未來(lái)中，廚師是建筑者

I noticed something uncomfortable. Many organic-certified farms have been working hard, yet their soils are degraded, their yields are unstable, and their costs are rising. In many cases, organic farming has become a substitution model.The same pattern exists in our analysis of some instructional optimization.

我注意到了一些令人不安的現(xiàn)象。許多已經(jīng)獲得有機(jī)認(rèn)證的農(nóng)場(chǎng)一直在努力經(jīng)營(yíng)，但它們的土壤卻在退化，產(chǎn)量不穩(wěn)定，成本也在不斷上升。在很多情況下，有機(jī)農(nóng)業(yè)已經(jīng)變成了一種替代模式。在我們對(duì)一些指導(dǎo)性優(yōu)化的分析中，也存在著同樣的模式。

Key Highlights:

?Peggy Chan reflects on “rooted” through a global lens. She was born in Hong Kong and shaped by experiences across Canada, Switzerland, Japan, and Hong Kong, each influencing her approach to food and hospitality

?Emphasises that being rooted in a place carriesresponsibility to people, communities, and ingredients, with Hong Kong making this connection immediate and personal

?Notes that while fine dining has driven creativity and innovation, it has also createdintensity, burnout, and extractive systems, mirrored in today’s food systems

?Calls for a shift from disruption to“care and repair”, reframing food as not just creativity, but alsopower and equity

?Challenges conventional sourcing models, observing that organic systems often leave soil“surviving, but not thriving”, leading her to focus on regeneration

?Introduces a key principle:
?Sustaining maintains
?Regeneration restores

?Advocates for regenerative agriculture to improvesoil health, flavour, and resilience, emphasising that better ecosystems lead to better taste

?Positions chefs as“infrastructure”within the food system, with the ability to influence how and what farmers grow

?Proposes a structural model - a1% contribution embedded into restaurant bills, to support farmer transition and system-wide change

?Highlights proven impact through theRestore Fund, supportingover 100,000 acres of farmland and 30,000 farmersin transition

?Concludes that the future of dining lies incollective responsibility, shifting from individual recognition to building systems that restore land, communities, and the food ecosystem

核心亮點(diǎn)

?陳碧琪以全球視角思考“根植本土”的內(nèi)涵。她生于香港，在加拿大、瑞士、日本與香港的生活經(jīng)歷，均塑造了她對(duì)飲食與餐飲服務(wù)的理念。

?她強(qiáng)調(diào)，扎根一方土地，便肩負(fù)起對(duì)當(dāng)?shù)孛癖?、社群與食材的責(zé)任，而香港讓這份聯(lián)結(jié)變得真切而個(gè)人。

?她指出，高端餐飲雖推動(dòng)了創(chuàng)意與創(chuàng)新，卻也帶來(lái)了行業(yè)高壓、從業(yè)者倦怠，以及資源掠奪式的運(yùn)營(yíng)體系，這一問(wèn)題也映射在當(dāng)下的整個(gè)食品體系中。

?她呼吁行業(yè)從“打破重構(gòu)”轉(zhuǎn)向“呵護(hù)與修復(fù)”，并重新定義飲食：它不僅是創(chuàng)意的表達(dá)，更關(guān)乎權(quán)力與公平。

?她對(duì)傳統(tǒng)的食材采購(gòu)模式提出質(zhì)疑，發(fā)現(xiàn)有機(jī)種植體系往往只能讓土壤“勉強(qiáng)存活，而非蓬勃生長(zhǎng)”，這也讓她將工作重心放在土壤再生上。

?她提出核心原則：

?可持續(xù)發(fā)展，是維持現(xiàn)狀；

?再生農(nóng)業(yè)，是修復(fù)重生。

?她倡導(dǎo)發(fā)展再生農(nóng)業(yè)，以此改善土壤健康、提升食材風(fēng)味、增強(qiáng)生態(tài)韌性，并強(qiáng)調(diào)更優(yōu)質(zhì)的生態(tài)系統(tǒng)，才能孕育出更鮮美的味道。

?她認(rèn)為，主廚是食品體系中的“基石力量”，能夠影響農(nóng)民的種植方式與種植品類。

?她提出一套結(jié)構(gòu)性方案：在餐廳賬單中增設(shè)1%的專項(xiàng)費(fèi)用，用于支持農(nóng)民向再生農(nóng)業(yè)轉(zhuǎn)型，推動(dòng)整個(gè)食品體系的變革。

?她著重介紹了“修復(fù)基金”的切實(shí)成效：該基金已為超10萬(wàn)英畝農(nóng)田、3萬(wàn)名轉(zhuǎn)型農(nóng)民提供了支持。

?她總結(jié)道，餐飲行業(yè)的未來(lái)在于集體責(zé)任，行業(yè)需從追求個(gè)人榮譽(yù)，轉(zhuǎn)向構(gòu)建能夠修復(fù)土地、滋養(yǎng)社群、重塑食品生態(tài)的體系。

Jason Liu (Executive Chef & Partner, Ling Long, Shanghai):

“Rooted, for me, means knowing where you come from, and that helps you know where you are going.”

劉禾森（上海凌瓏餐廳行政總廚&合伙人）：

“于我而言，根植本土，意味著知曉自己的來(lái)處，而這有助于我們知道該走向何方。”

My name is Jason. I'm very happy to be with you all, and to have you here for this. I just made it through from the praise, and everything starts from Ling Long in the first place.

我叫Jason，非常高興能和大家相聚于此，也很感謝各位能到場(chǎng)參與這次活動(dòng)。我一路走來(lái)獲得一片贊譽(yù)，而這些贊譽(yù)最初便是從Ling Long餐廳開始。

Key Highlights:

?Chef Jason Liu, chef-owner of Ling Long Shanghai, interprets “rooted” through a personal lens shaped by his upbringing in Taipei’s military dependents village, where exposure to people and cuisines from across China formed his early taste memory and inspired the creation of Ling Long.

?Describes Chinese cuisine as“uncut jade”, with roots going back thousands of years, built on accumulated recipes, techniques, and culinary wisdom.

?Sees Ling Long as his way of“carving” this jade— taking traditional Chinese cuisine and presenting it in a way that is clear, modern, and still true to its roots

?His perspective was shaped further through global exchanges, where he found many people associate Chinese cuisine mainly with“fried rice and fried noodles,”highlighting how much of its depth remains underrepresented

?This realisation drives his motivation to bring Chinese cuisine onto a bigger stage，allowing more people to experience not only the food, but also itsstories, techniques, philosophy, and cultural meaning

?At Ling Long, his approach is structured around three key elements he outlined:
?Localisation:using ingredients from across China to reflect the diversity of its regions, including the eight main cuisines (Lu, Chuan, Yue, Su, Min, Zhe, Xiang, Hui)
?Tradition:following a70% tradition, 30% innovationapproachstudying and respecting classic recipes while adapting them to “speak to today”
?Xian (umami):a core concept in Chinese cuisine, understood as natural flavour found in ingredients such as mushrooms, seafood, and dried products, and further developed through techniques like house-made reductions

?Describes Ling Long as a meeting point between“the root and the world, the past and the future,”which he refers to as a“M?bius strip”

?Signature dish“Oyster and Beef”(since 2019) reflects this thinking — inspired by traditional oyster sauce beef, presented in a Western style, but rooted in Chinese marination and flavour

?Emphasises that Chinese cuisine carries a long legacy, and that today many chefs across China are contributing to its ongoing evolution

核心亮點(diǎn)

?上海凌瓏餐廳主廚兼主理人劉禾森，以個(gè)人成長(zhǎng)經(jīng)歷詮釋“根植本土”：他成長(zhǎng)于臺(tái)北眷村，在這里接觸到來(lái)自中國(guó)各地的人與美食，這份早期的味覺(jué)記憶，也成為創(chuàng)立凌瓏餐廳的靈感源泉。

?他將中國(guó)烹飪比作“璞玉”，擁有數(shù)千年的深厚根基，積淀了無(wú)數(shù)經(jīng)典配方、烹飪技法與飲食智慧。

?他認(rèn)為，凌瓏餐廳的創(chuàng)立，便是自己對(duì)這塊“璞玉”的雕琢——萃取傳統(tǒng)中餐的精髓，以簡(jiǎn)潔、現(xiàn)代的方式呈現(xiàn)，卻始終堅(jiān)守其本源。

?海外交流的經(jīng)歷讓他的認(rèn)知更為深刻：他發(fā)現(xiàn)許多外國(guó)人對(duì)中餐的印象，仍停留在“炒飯、炒面”，這也讓他意識(shí)到，中餐深厚的底蘊(yùn)仍遠(yuǎn)未被外界知曉。

?這份感悟成為他的動(dòng)力，推動(dòng)他將中餐帶上更大的國(guó)際舞臺(tái)，讓更多人不僅品嘗到中餐的美味，更能讀懂其背后的故事、技法、飲食哲學(xué)與文化內(nèi)涵。

?在凌瓏餐廳的經(jīng)營(yíng)中，他的理念圍繞三大核心展開：

?本土化：選用中國(guó)各地的食材，展現(xiàn)中華大地的飲食多樣性，涵蓋魯、川、粵、蘇、閩、浙、湘、徽八大菜系。

?傳統(tǒng)與創(chuàng)新：遵循“七分傳統(tǒng)，三分創(chuàng)新”的原則，在研習(xí)、尊重經(jīng)典配方的基礎(chǔ)上，做出適配當(dāng)下的調(diào)整與創(chuàng)新。

?鮮：這是中餐的核心味覺(jué)理念，指食材本身的天然鮮味，常見(jiàn)于菌菇、海鮮、干貨等食材，餐廳也會(huì)通過(guò)自制濃縮醬汁等技法，進(jìn)一步提煉鮮味。

?他將凌瓏餐廳定義為“根源與世界交匯、過(guò)去與未來(lái)相融”的地方，并稱其為一條“莫比烏斯環(huán)”。

?餐廳的招牌菜“蠔與?！保ㄗ?019年推出）便是這一理念的具象表達(dá)：靈感源于傳統(tǒng)蠔油牛肉，以西式擺盤呈現(xiàn)，卻始終扎根于中餐的腌制手法與味覺(jué)精髓。

?他強(qiáng)調(diào)，中餐擁有悠久的傳承，如今，中國(guó)各地的眾多主廚，都在為中餐的持續(xù)發(fā)展與創(chuàng)新貢獻(xiàn)著力量。

Chef Thitid ‘Ton’ & Chaisiri ‘Tam’ Tassanakajohn (Co-Owners, Executive Chef & Head Sommelier, Nusara, Bangkok):
“Being rooted is about expressing where we come from, in every detail, from the food to what we pour in the glass.”

Chef Ton & Tam（曼谷Nusara餐廳聯(lián)合主理人，行政總廚&首席侍酒師）：

“根植本土，意味著在每個(gè)細(xì)節(jié)中表達(dá)我們的來(lái)處，從盤中的美食，到杯中的佳釀?！?/p>

I promise it's not gonna be long. I'm very excited. It’s the first time in almost 10 years that we’ve kept the best, and you guys asked me to do this again this year. I’m really happy to be in the Top, it’s an extra joy for me. So we’re gonna be talking about the roots. I think you can look at this in many ways, and for us, we’re like a family. I think the roots are something extremely important that you cannot leave out. Without them, a language can’t really survive, and I think it’s the same for us humans. As you might know, our restaurant is named after my grandma. That’s basically where we started.

我保證不會(huì)占用太久時(shí)間，此刻我滿心激動(dòng)。這是近十年來(lái)我們首次將這份美好延續(xù)，而今年，你們依舊邀請(qǐng)我來(lái)做這件事。能躋身前列，我由衷開心，這對(duì)我而言更是一份額外的喜悅。接下來(lái)我想和大家聊聊“根”，我想大家對(duì)此會(huì)有諸多理解，而于我們而言，我們就像一家人。在我看來(lái)，“根”是至關(guān)重要、不可或缺的存在，就像語(yǔ)言失去根基便無(wú)法傳承，我們?nèi)祟愐嗍侨绱??；蛟S大家有所了解，我們的餐廳以我的祖母命名，這便是我們一切的起點(diǎn)。

Many of you may not know about our father, he passed away when we were very young. I was maybe 4 years old, and my mom was a single parent and worked very hard to raise us three boys on her own. That’s why my grandma stepped in. She was the one who really took care of us. We were very young then, and that created a very special bond between us. When I think about the roots, I think about three things. First, and most importantly, family. Second is the ocean, and third is the land. Let’s start with family. Family is the most important aspect of our humanity, and this is our family.

許多人不曾知曉我們的父親在我們很小的時(shí)候就離世了，那時(shí)我約莫四歲，母親成了單親媽媽，獨(dú)自辛苦打拼撫養(yǎng)我們兄弟三人長(zhǎng)大。也正因如此，祖母接過(guò)了照顧我們的重?fù)?dān)，是她一直用心照料著我們。那時(shí)的我們尚且年幼，這份經(jīng)歷也讓我們之間結(jié)下了無(wú)比深厚的羈絆。當(dāng)我思索“根”的含義，腦海中會(huì)浮現(xiàn)三樣?xùn)|西，第一也是最為重要的便是家人，第二是海洋，第三是大地。我們就從家人開始說(shuō)起，家人是我們?nèi)诵灾凶詈诵牡牟糠郑丝?，在座的各位就是我的家人?/p>

Key Highlights:

?At Nusara, “rooted” begins with a shared philosophy that extends beyond food to the entire dining experience, where food, wine, space and service are designed to speak the same language

?Chef Ton cooks from memory, while Tam builds the wine program around it, creating a connection betweenmemory and what belongs alongside it

?Their approach to wine reflects this idea of rootedness, placing emphasis onThai winealongside international selections as a natural extension of cuisine grounded in Thai soil, seasons and ingredients

?This commitment has been part of Nusara’s vision since the beginning, not as a trend, but as a way to express local identity within a global dining context

?Producers such asGranMonte in Khao Yaiexemplify this philosophy, with wines shaped by local terroir including red clay soils, limestone and a monsoon climate

?These wines are not intended to replicate Old or New World styles, but to express a character thatbelongs to Thailand, reflecting its climate and landscape

?For example, GranMonte’s Viognier shows tropical aromatics and fruit profiles that naturally align with Thai cuisine, enhancing balance and depth in pairing

?Thai wine is increasingly part of the global conversation, as part of theNew Latitude wine movement, gaining recognition for its quality and distinct identity

?At Nusara, storytelling starts withplace, connecting wine and cuisine through shared geography and seasonality

?Ultimately, Nusara expresses “rooted” through a unified experience wherememory, place and Thai identityare reflected consistently across every element on the table

核心亮點(diǎn)

?在Nusara餐廳，“根植本土”是貫穿始終的核心理念，且不止于美食，而是融入整個(gè)用餐體驗(yàn)：菜品、酒飲、空間設(shè)計(jì)、服務(wù)體系，皆秉持同一種表達(dá)邏輯。

?主廚Ton以味覺(jué)記憶為靈感進(jìn)行烹飪，而Tam則圍繞這份記憶打造葡萄酒酒單，讓味覺(jué)記憶與杯中美釀產(chǎn)生深度聯(lián)結(jié)。

?他們的酒單設(shè)計(jì)充分詮釋了“根植本土”：在甄選國(guó)際葡萄酒的同時(shí)，將泰國(guó)本土葡萄酒作為核心，使其成為根植于泰國(guó)土地、季節(jié)與食材的餐飲體驗(yàn)的自然延伸。

?這份堅(jiān)守從Nusara創(chuàng)立之初便融入品牌愿景，并非追隨潮流，而是希望在全球餐飲語(yǔ)境中，表達(dá)屬于泰國(guó)的本土身份。

?考艾山的格蘭蒙酒莊便是這一理念的典范，其釀造的葡萄酒深植于當(dāng)?shù)仫L(fēng)土——紅黏土、石灰?guī)r地貌，還有季風(fēng)氣候，皆塑造了酒品的獨(dú)特特質(zhì)。

?這些泰國(guó)葡萄酒并非刻意模仿舊世界或新世界的風(fēng)格，而是凝練出獨(dú)屬于泰國(guó)的風(fēng)味特質(zhì)，映射著當(dāng)?shù)氐臍夂蚺c地貌。

?例如，格蘭蒙酒莊的維歐尼葡萄酒，帶有濃郁的熱帶果香與芳香，與泰國(guó)菜的味覺(jué)特質(zhì)天然契合，能為餐酒搭配增添平衡感與層次感。

?作為“新緯度葡萄酒運(yùn)動(dòng)”的重要組成，泰國(guó)葡萄酒正逐漸走入全球視野，其品質(zhì)與獨(dú)特的本土標(biāo)識(shí)也獲得了國(guó)際認(rèn)可。

?在Nusara餐廳，美食敘事始終以土地為起點(diǎn)，通過(guò)共同的地域?qū)傩耘c季節(jié)特征，讓葡萄酒與菜品產(chǎn)生深度聯(lián)結(jié)。

?最終，Nusara餐廳以一場(chǎng)渾然一體的用餐體驗(yàn)，詮釋了“根植本土”的內(nèi)涵：味覺(jué)記憶、土地情懷與泰國(guó)的本土身份，皆在餐桌的每一個(gè)細(xì)節(jié)中，得到一致的表達(dá)。

Rachael Hoggfrom 50 BEST

We will be exploring the profound influence of place, landscape, memories, flavors, and communities that define who we are and how we cook. Inspiration can come from the most unlikely places, but often it comes from what's right in front of you. The quiet of a mountainside finds its counterpart in the city center. The musical hues of autumn, the constant postings in an online urban streetscape. No matter where you are from, the sights and sounds you take in every day shape your perspective. I mean, they are everything to you.

我們將探索地域、風(fēng)景、記憶、風(fēng)味與社群的深遠(yuǎn)影響——正是這些塑造了我們的身份與烹飪方式。靈感或許源自最意想不到的地方，但它往往就藏在你眼前的日常里。山間的靜謐，與都市中心的喧囂遙相呼應(yīng)；秋日的斑斕色彩，如同樂(lè)章般流轉(zhuǎn)；城市街巷里的線上動(dòng)態(tài)，時(shí)刻鮮活。無(wú)論你來(lái)自何方，每日映入眼簾、傳入耳畔的一切，都在塑造你的視角。對(duì)我而言，這些就是生活的全部。

Today, the industry is searching for our roots, looking inward from the local flavors that have been here for nine years and more. The coastline and fields have inspired us all. So how do you think that interpretation translates into our cooking?

如今，餐飲行業(yè)正努力尋找我們的根基，從這片土地上延續(xù)了九年乃至更久的本土風(fēng)味中向內(nèi)探尋。海岸線與田野喚醒了所有人的靈感。那么，你認(rèn)為這種對(duì)根源的詮釋，最終會(huì)如何呈現(xiàn)在我們的料理之中？

我想，答案會(huì)在明年持續(xù)揭曉。

神 婆 問(wèn)

你 喜 歡 亞 洲 美 食 嗎 ？

“把精力放在一切能向上生長(zhǎng)的事物上?！?/strong>

——神婆

Food Bless You！

《風(fēng)味人間》顧問(wèn)

《神一樣的餐桌》主人

《食野中國(guó)》《人間值得369》制片人