提起古鎮(zhèn)，很多人想到的是江南水鄉(xiāng)。但湖北赤壁藏著一個完全不一樣的古鎮(zhèn)——羊樓洞，它是中俄萬里茶道的源頭，距今已有上千年歷史。更難得的是，這里幾乎沒有商業(yè)化，游客少到可以包場。

羊樓洞位于赤壁市區(qū)西南約30公里處，地處湘鄂交界。明清時期，這里是中國最繁華的茶葉集散地之一，羊樓洞的青磚茶沿著萬里茶道一路北上，經(jīng)蒙古到達(dá)俄羅斯，甚至遠(yuǎn)銷歐洲。鼎盛時期，古鎮(zhèn)上有茶莊200多家，人口超過4萬。

明清石板街：踩在歷史上面

古鎮(zhèn)的核心是一條長約1公里的青石板街，街面用青石條鋪成，經(jīng)過幾百年的踩踏，石板被磨得光滑如鏡。石板中間有一條深深的凹槽，那是當(dāng)年運(yùn)茶的獨(dú)輪車壓出來的車轍印，最深的地方有十幾厘米。站在街上低頭看這些車轍，能想象出當(dāng)年車水馬龍的盛況。

街道兩旁是明清時期的建筑，木質(zhì)結(jié)構(gòu)，黑瓦白墻，門板可以一塊塊卸下來。很多老房子還有人居住，午后老人搬出竹椅坐在門口曬太陽，貓?jiān)谖蓍芟麓蝽�。沒有酒吧，沒有紀(jì)念品店，沒有喧鬧的音樂，只有風(fēng)吹過石板路的聲音。

趙李橋磚茶：國家級非遺的活態(tài)傳承

羊樓洞的魂是茶。這里的青磚茶制作技藝被列入國家級非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)，至今還有老茶坊在使用傳統(tǒng)工藝制茶。

雷氏家族在羊樓洞制茶已有七代，雷家的“巨盛川”茶莊是古鎮(zhèn)上最老的茶號之一。走進(jìn)雷家老宅，院子里曬著剛采摘的茶葉，屋里飄著濃郁的茶香。雷家后人會親自給你泡一壺陳年青磚茶，湯色紅亮，入口醇厚，回甘悠長。

游客可以體驗(yàn)制茶——從殺青、揉捻到渥堆、壓磚，整個過程大約需要兩小時。做好的磚茶可以刻上自己的名字帶走，一塊磚茶不到100元，比任何紀(jì)念品都有意義。

松峰山：萬畝茶園和絕美日落

古鎮(zhèn)旁邊是松峰山，山上種滿了茶樹，一眼望不到邊。https://www.emeiy.com/html/184391.html
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https://www.emeiy.com/html/184192.html春天采茶季，漫山遍野都是采茶人的身影，戴著草帽，背著竹簍，唱著山歌。

沿著茶園里的步道爬到山頂，大約需要40分鐘。山頂有一座觀景亭，站在那里可以俯瞰整個羊樓洞古鎮(zhèn)和萬畝茶園。傍晚時分，夕陽把茶園染成金色，遠(yuǎn)處的山巒層層疊疊，美得不像在中國。

山頂有一家茶館，是用老房子改建的，木梁瓦頂，四面透風(fēng)。坐在茶館里喝一杯新炒的春茶，看太陽慢慢沉入山后，山風(fēng)吹來，滿鼻都是茶葉的清香。這種體驗(yàn)，東南亞的海島給不了你。

實(shí)用攻略

交通：從武漢出發(fā)，坐高鐵到赤壁北站約40分鐘，然后打車到羊樓洞古鎮(zhèn)約40公里，車費(fèi)約100元。也可以自駕，走京港澳高速赤壁出口下，再走省道約30分鐘。

住宿：古鎮(zhèn)上有幾家民宿，價格在200-300元之間。也可以住赤壁市區(qū)，選擇更多。